“I love cutting curly hair because it allows me the freedom to use freehand cutting techniques twisting the hair to redistribute weight from one part of the shape to another. It’s like sculpting, being visual yet technical, understanding what the hair will and won’t do for you.”
– Rocco Petrucci, Founder, Zucci Hairdressing
Cutting the hair:
Cutting curly hair requires an understanding of hair elasticity, texture, density, individual maintenance requirements and knowhow. People from diverse racial backgrounds have varied textures and degree of curl making it a challenge for most hairdressers. There is not one universal technique that can be followed when cutting curly hair, and that is why I find each unique experience so rewarding.
Curly hair can be cut wet or dry depending on the requirements of my Guest and the state that the hair is in. I would recommend cutting curly hair when it is dry 80% of the time. When using shampoo and conditioners, it is important to determine the individual’s hair and scalp condition. Aveda have a wide range of products that will maintain, nourish, restore moisture and smooth the cuticle. Curly hair needs to be saturated (very wet) before any products can be applied, this can be done after cutting is complete. I recommend the hair be handled very gently when removing excess moisture after it has been washed, this can be done by squeezing the hair to remove any excess moisture, using a towel is not advised as it can absorb too much moisture and roughen up the cuticle.
A few of my favorite Aveda products to use on curly hair include the Brilliant Anti Humectant cocktailed with Brilliant Retexturising Gel, or a combination of products from the Be Curly range. The secret is how the products are distributed and applied to the hair. Always apply evenly throughout the hair, place sections between the palms of your hands and rub the hair from roots to tips in one motion flattening the cuticle so that it feels smooth. The products nee
Styling the hair:
Once the haircut is complete and product has been applied the hair should be dried naturally or with a heater that has a horizontal motor. This will give you a much softer and warmer airflow hence not disturbing the forming curl and will also prevent fluffiness. Use gravity, I have my Guests position their head upside down as I physically move the heater around their head so that the moisture is removed evenly, I also recommend this technique to my guests when they are styling their own hair at home.
Do not touch the hair in any way! No scrunching, rubbing, squeezing or pulling is required. You can touch the hair when majority of the moisture has been removed, this is when the hair is ready to be molded using your hands, gently push the hair back to the head creating a fuller look or separate the strands of curl for a more defined look. If my Guest is after a more voluminous look I simply ensure that the hair is completely dry before styling, I massage the roots of the hair out form the head to gain more volume and finish off with a generous spray of Air Control to hold in place.
We at Zucci pride ourselves on having exceptional Curly Hair cutting, styling and colouring skills. For more information or to book an appointment please call your closest Zucci location.
For your personalised Curly Hair consultation please call and speak to one of our experts.
Zucci @ Ivanhoe 03 9497 1038 – Book an appointment with Hiro
Zucci Lifestyle Salon at David Jones 03 9654 8456 – Book an appointment with Bianca
Zucci @ South Melbourne 03 9682 0400 – Book an appointment with Rosemary or Kimberly